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Cecilia Niemeyer KAL – first things first!

Let's start shall we? Now that we have already swatched and found the perfect yarn & needles, let's choose our size? This is the pattern information about sizes: SIZE XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] shown in size M FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Chest: 32.5 [36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches Length: 18.5 [19, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21, 21.5] inches Note: For fit as shown, choose the size that matches your bust measurements. We always recommend that you ask a friend to take your measurements, specially at bust line. (When we do this by ourselves, the results are not that accurate!). However, most of the patterns are sized for cup B bust, and if your cup is higher than that, I would like to suggest some things so you can knit a garment that flatters your body. - Ask a friend to help you taking your measurements: bust line, upper arm, waist and lower waist. It's recommended that you wear your regular brassiere, well adjusted! measurements 2 - With this 4 numbers, take a look at the schematics, check if the garment has positive, negative or no ease, and make your size choice. Cecilia schematics edit w big numbers - It's possible that when your bust line matches a size, the other measurements are too big, This means that you probably have a bust cup higher or too smaller than B. I would like to suggest that you ask your friend to measure right under your armpits, parallel with the bust line. Consider this number as your bust line for size choice purpose. measurements 1 It's very possible that the others measurements (upper arm, waist and lower waist) will match your new choice of size, and your raglan will be on the right place, flattering your body! If you have a cup higher than B, we can figure out together (or you can do it by yourself, if you find it best) how many short rows we will need to create bust darts for your cup size. A good time to start bust darts is when we already worked about 1, 5 to 2 inches from the underarm. Are you good with your size choice now?! Now it's a wonderful time to read the notes and understand how the garment is worked and be aware of details. PATTERN NOTES This sweater is worked top-down and back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round. Begin working the lacy collar, followed by shaping the back neck with short rows and working the yoke and body in Reverse Stockinette stitch until the rib 1 x 1 finishing. There are 3 collar’s charts for each cardigan size (center, right and left sides). After the short rows shaping, the collar folds back and the Row 22 becomes a RS row. The sleeves are also worked in Reverse Stockinette stitch in circular. The cuffs are worked in 1 x 1 ribbing and a lace panel. The instructions at the beginning and at the end of all the rows along the collar yoke and body (except the ones from the short rows shaping), builds an I-cord finishing along the edges. On the body there will be 2 columns formed by knit stitches (RS) and purl stitches (WS) on each side, like if they were seams. After the collar and along the yoke and body, two button bands are worked along the cardigan. At one we will sew the buttons, the other will cover them and a third one is worked when the piece is finished, picking up stitches from the inside (WS). Let's take a few more minutes to check the Abbreviations and Stitches used on the pattern, so the work can flow ! Abbreviations: st(s) = stitch(es) CO = cast-on Cable CO = Insert the right needle between the first and second stitch of the left needle. Knit a stitch onto the right needle, taking care to not remove anything from the left needle, other than the knitted stitch. You will have a stitch on the right needle. Without twisting it, place this stitch onto the left needle. Repeat those steps. CO with backwards loop method demonstrative video = http://youtu.be/c-a__M24HUM K = knit P = purl Sl = slip pm = place marker slm = slip marker YO = yarn over (1 stitch increased) M1R (make one stitch slanted to the right side) = lift the strand between stitches from the back to the front and knit into the front (1 stitch increased) M1L (make one stitch slanted to the left side) = lift the strand between stitches from the front to back and knit into the back (1 stitch increased) M1R and L demonstrative video = http://youtu.be/D9C82ix5yCE W&T = wrap&turn W&T with knit sts = Keeping the yarn in the back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front as if to purl. Slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the back of the work as if to knit. Turn the work so the purl side is facing you. W&T with knit sts demonstrative video = http://youtu.be/0BFQzcs_nFc wyif = with yarn in front wyib = with yarn in back cdd (central double decrease) = sl 2 sts knitwise, K1, pass 2 sl sts over (2 stitches decreased) SSK = slip 2 sts (knitwise with yarn in back) one at time; return both sts to LH needle and knit them together through the back loops (1 stitch decreased) K2tog = knit 2 sts together (1 stitch decreased) SSP = Slip 2 sts (knitwise with yarn in back) one at time; return both sts to LH needle and purl them together through the back loops (1 stitch decreased) P2tog = purl 2 sts together (1 stitch decreased) Pfb = purl 1 st in front and in the back (1 stitch increased) Stitches: Reverse Stockinette stitch (back and forth): (RS) rows: Purl (WS) rows: Knit Stockinette stitch (back and forth): (RS) rows: Knit (WS) rows: Purl Reverse Stockinette stitch (in the round): Purl all rounds. 1 X 1 Rib odd number of sts (back and forth): Row 1: K1, *(P1, K1), repeat from * to the end. Row 2: *(P1, K1), repeat from * to last st, P1. Repeat rows 1 and 2. 1 X 1 Rib even number of sts (back and forth): Row 1: *(K1, P1), repeat from * to the end. Row 2: *(P1, K1), repeat from * to the end. Repeat rows 1 and 2. 1 X 1 Rib odd number of sts (in the round): Round 1: K1, *(P1, K1), repeat from * to the end. Repeat round 1. 1 X 1 Rib even number of sts (in the round): Round: *(K1, P1), repeat from * to the end. Repeat round 1. Now it's cast-on time! Yay! How exciting is this moment for knitters! As specified on the notes, we start at the edge of the lacy collar and keep working towards the neck. When finishing the collar chart, we will work a few short rows in garter stitch for a better fit and perfect folder over the shoulders. And, without seaming, we will be casting on a few stitches at the beginning of the two next rows for button band and cover, already working on the raglan! So....hands on! Cast-on and have fun! *** All the charts are at the end of the pdf, so you can print only the ones from your size! Because of lack of space, they are not here, but you can download the full pattern HERE at Ravelry! PATTERN Collar Using larger needles, CO 136 [136, 136, 136, 136, 136, 136] sts. Purl one row. Set up Row: P3, pm, (P26, pm) 5 times, P3. Work Rows 1 to 14 from Collar Charts as follows: Row 1 [RS]: K3, slm, Collar Chart Right side, slm, [Collar Chart Center, slm] 3 times, Collar Chart Left side, slm, wyib sl 3 sts purlwise. Row 2 [WS]:P3, slm, Collar Chart Left side, slm, [Collar Chart Center, slm] 3 times, Collar Chart Right side, slm, wyif sl 3 sts purlwise. Keep working until complete the 14 Rows from the Collar Charts. Row 15: K3, slm, P until last 3 sts, slm, wyib sl 3 sts purlwise. Row 16: P3, K until last 3 sts removing markers, wyif sl 3 sts purlwise. Shaping neck with short rows Row 17: K52 [52, 54, 56, 58, 58, 60] sts, W&T. Row 18: K16 sts [all sizes], W&T. Row 19: K12 sts [all sizes], W&T. Row 20: K8 sts [all sizes], W&T. Row 21: K to end [all sizes]. You will have 88 [88, 92, 96, 100, 100, 104] sts on the needle. Yoke Set up Row 22 [RS]: Cable CO and K4 sts, K4, pm, P13 [13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20] sts, M1R, pm, K1, pm, M1L, P8 [8, 6, 6, 4, 2, 2] sts, M1R, pm, K1, pm, M1L, P34 [34, 38, 40, 44, 46, 48] sts, M1R, pm, K1, pm, M1L, P8 [8, 6, 6, 4, 2, 2] sts, M1R, pm, K1, pm, M1L, P13 [13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20] sts, pm, P4. Set up Row 23 [WS]: Cable CO and P 8 sts, P4 sts, slm, [K to marker, slm, P1, slm] 4 times, K to marker, slm, P2, K4, P2. Row 24 [RS]: K2, P4, K2, slm, [P to marker, M1R, slm, K1, slm, M1L] 4 times, P to marker, slm, K5, P1, K5, wyib sl 1 st purlwise. Row 25 [WS]: P6, K1, P5, slm, [K to marker, slm, P1, slm] 4 times, K to marker, slm, P2, K4, wyif sl 2 sts purlwise. Repeat Rows 24 and 25 more 22 [23, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31] times. You will have 292 [300, 328, 340, 352, 368, 380] sts on the needle. Setting up for body and sleeves Note: - Stitch markers will be reStitch markers will be removed and repositioned. - The Raglan stitches are considered sleeve stitches. Set up Row 1: K2, P4, K2, slm, P37 [38, 43, 45, 48, 51, 53], * place next 58 [60, 64, 66, 66, 68, 70] sleeve sts holding on scrap yarn, CO 2 [6, 6, 12, 16, 20, 26] using the backwards loop method, pm, CO 2 [6, 6, 12, 16, 20, 26] using the backwards loop method **, P82 [84, 94, 98, 104, 110, 114] sts, repeat from * to **, P37 [38, 43, 45, 48, 51, 53], slm, K5, P1, K5, wyib sl 1 st purlwise. Set up Row 2: P6, K1, P5, slm, K38 [43, 48, 56, 63, 70, 78] sts, P1, slm, P1, K84 [94, 104, 120, 134, 148, 164] sts, P1, slm, P1, K38 [43, 48, 56, 63, 70, 78] sts, slm, P2, K4, wyif sl2 sts purlwise. You will have 184 [204, 224, 256, 284, 312, 344] sts on the needle. Body Row 1 [RS]: K2, P4, K2, slm, P38 [43, 48, 56, 63, 70, 78] sts, K1, slm, K1, P84 [94, 104, 120, 134, 148, 164] sts, K1, slm, K1, P38 [43, 48, 56, 63, 70, 78] sts, slm, K5, P1, K5, wyib sl 1 st purlwise. Row 2 [WS]: P6, K1, P5, slm, K38 [43, 48, 56, 63, 70, 78] sts, P1, slm, P1, K84 [94, 104, 120, 134, 148, 164] sts, P1, slm, P1, K38 [43, 48, 56, 63, 70, 78] sts, slm, P2, K4, wyif sl 2 sts purlwise. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for more 8 times [9 times total]. *** If you want to make bust darts, work those 2 rows until you have about 1,5 inches. Then we can talk about it next week or you can leave a comment here and I will answer asap! Have a wonderful weekend! PeaceKnit&Love as much as you can! Paula      
2 Comments Post a comment
  1. Marli Freitas #

    não tem em portugues?

    February 4, 2013
    • PKL #

      Oi Marli
      Tudo bem?
      Obrigada pelo seu comentario!
      O blog é escrito em portugues tambem!
      Na barra superior onde esta escrito “home” “about me” “contact me” em seguida tem “em portugue”! É só clicar ali que entra o blog em portugues!
      Obrigada
      Beijinho
      Paula

      February 4, 2013

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